Piecing Guide part 2, sewing ピーシング法 その二、縫い方。

So we have perfectly cut square shaped fabrics. Now we have to stitch/piece them together perfectly with 1/4″ seam allowance.
But before we start, a few thing to mention. You need a sharp thin needle on the machine because a dull or big needle pushes extra fabric down to the hole which adds or reduces seam allowance. That means inaccurate seam allowance. I use size 11/75 general needles from Organ. Size 70 is more widely available here and I know some recommends Microtex from Schmetz but I haven’t found that much difference.
If you can make the hole of throat plate small, please do. That will avoid same thing happening as above.
The first thing needs to be done is finding a 1/4″ from the needle.
Put a paper with a thin line marked 1/4″ from the edge under the needle as you can see photo below and find 1/4″. There is various way to mark 1/4″ and I use this sewing guide. One of the cheapest and quickest way is to stick a several layer of masking tape on the table of the machine. If you use 1/4″ foot, please make sure it agrees with your ruler.
But more importantly when you draw that line on a sheet of paper, use your ruler for cutting and use a mechanical pencil because it is very sharp and gets very close to the ruler’s edge. A dull pencil, marker or ball point pen don’t get close enough and will increase the 1/4″ you want to mark. And also place a ruler’s marking line just off the paper’s edge which means you are doing opposite of what you do when cutting fabrics. That will mark the scant 1/4″.
quarter marking
We are almost starting to sew.
Put two fabric right side together and make sure all four sides are meeting exactly. That means from either side of fabric you can’t see the other one. If two fabrics are not same shape, make sure three or two sides are meeting exactly. By the way, if two pieces are not cut properly, you can’t put them together exactly. In that case, measure and cut them in proper size/shape.
fabric together
Now to sew! Gently feed a paired fabric to the machine. Do not look at the needle when sewing. Keep your eyes on the marking for the 1/4″ seam allowance. Let the machine to feed the fabric once it’s engaged. I found that way it sews better.
Use 50wt thread. I recommend Aurifil thread because they are thinner. Thicker thread will add thickness to the seam.
Sew slowly if you are not sure. I sew slowly first in the morning and gradually speed up. I don’t know how I loose accuracy after the break but I do.
This is pieced three 2 1/2″ squares. It became 2 1/2″ by 6 1/2″. I am adding 2 1/2″ by 6 1/2″ rectangular shape to this next.
I make sure not only right hand edge but also the top edge are matching perfectly (there is another piece of fabric underneath but you can’t see because they are exactly same shape).
second section 011
Once the needle is in, stop sewing and match the bottom end while the needle is down. And then tug fabrics slightly and continue sewing. Make sure bottom edges are held together and keep 1/4″seam allowance right while sewing all the way down. I don’t pin for this length but do if you need.
second section 03second section 04
That’s it. Most thing you need is a preparation and you don’t need to do it repeatedly. Sewing itself is not that hard but getting it right is. Practice and get better at it!